Hardwood Floor Care

Good preventative maintenance lengthens the intervals between major renovation operations such as re-coating and refinishing. The following solutions apply only to polyurethane finishes. Do not attempt on waxed floor finishes. Simple suggestions to keep your floors beautiful and making their care easier.

Mats and rugs: Dirt, grit and sand act like sandpaper to scratch, dent and dull hardwood floors. Use dirt-trapping, walk off mats at all exterior doors to help prevent dirt, grit and sand from getting inside the building. Throw rugs or small sections of carpet just inside the entrance are also recommended. Dirt and Grit are any flooring's worst enemy and that includes carpets and vinyl's as well as Hardwoods. Keep door mats clean. In kitchens, use area rugs at high spill locations and at work stations-stove, sink, refrigerator. Cotton is generally the best fabric since it is easily washed. Mats with a smooth backing, i.e. rubber or vinyl may trap water beneath. To avoid uneven appearance, move area rugs occasionally and drape or shade large windows.

Furniture:
Put fabric glides on the legs of your furniture; they allow furniture to be moved easy without scuffing the floor. Lift, don't drag. Clean the glides regularly since grit can become embedded in them . Some furniture may require barrel type roller casters as ball type casters may cause damage. Grey, non-marking rubber casters are the best. Avoid casters made of hard materials like metals or hard plastics.

Vacuuming, sweeping or mopping
Sweep, vacuum or dust mop at least weekly; a brush attachment works beautifully. Do not use a household dust treatment as this may cause your floor to become slick, dull the finish, or interfere with recoating. Canister vacuums with special bare floor attachments are the surest way to get rid of all the dirt and dust. Never use wax products like Murphy's Oil Soap, Endust, Pledge etc... . If mopping, use a dust mop with a 12-to-18-inch cotton head. Check with the flooring manufacturer if a mop treatment is to be used. Water and other standing liquids can damage a floor's finish. Standing water can warp a finished floor. Starting at the edge and working toward the center, wipe up spills, pet accidents and other mishaps when they happen.

Spills:
Wipe up food and other spills immediately with a dry cloth or paper towel. A damp (not wet) cloth may be used on a well-sealed wood floor to wipe up food spills or mud. Wipe dry with cloth or paper towel. Clean when necessary with a solvent-based liquid wax for wood. Follow directions on container.

High Heels:
Keep heels on shoes in good repair, especially high heels. Heels that have their protective cap missing or worn away exposing the steel support rod will dent any floor surface, even concrete.

Moving furniture:
Prevent scratches when moving furniture by putting heavy socks over the legs.

Sunlight:
Sunlight can cause discoloration over time. Close curtains and blinds or add sheer drapes to protect a hardwood floor from intense UV rays.


How to clean polyurethane finishes:

Alcoholic beverage stains:
Rub with a cloth dampened in a solution of white vinegar and warm water in equal proportions, then rub it with a dry cloth.

Blood stains:
Mop or sponge with clear, cold water. If the stain remains, mop or sponge it with a solution of ammonia and cold water.

Candy stains:
Rub with a cloth dampened in detergent and warm water. For abrasive action, use steel wool instead of a cloth except on "no wax", or hard-surface floors. On them use powdered detergent and a plastic scrubbing pad dampened with warm water.

Crayon marks:
Crayon marks on the floor may be removed by rubbing them with a damp cloth containing toothpaste. Toothpaste will not work well on porous surfaces.

Dark spots
Dark spots on wood floors are often the result of alkaline exposure, which were allowed to dry on the floor. To get rid of these spots: remove solvent based wax with mineral spirits; this is a flammable solvent so be very careful; have adequate ventilation, and be sure there is no spark or flame in the area. Apply white vinegar to spots and leave it there for three of four minutes; and wipe dry with a clean cloth. Repeat this procedure, if necessary. If several applications of vinegar do not remove the spot, you might try a four percent oxalic acid solution. When using oxalic acid, read the label and observe all cautions.

Scratches and small worn areas
These can often be concealed by applying a small amount of wax with very fine steel wool to the floor. Apply the wax in the direction of the wood grain wherever possible and rub it in gently until the color blends with the floor. Wipe off any excess, then polish the area with a clean, dry cloth. Wax, alone, will work well for light to medium-colored floors.

Dye stains:
Rub with a cloth dampened in a solution of one part chlorine bleach and two parts water. Under no circumstances combine ammonia with chlorine bleach, since them may lead to the formation of a harmful gas. The water can hurt wood floors, do not let it soak.

Grease:
Ice Cube or Cold Water. If you spill grease on a wood floor, immediately place an ice cube or very cold water on the spot. The grease will harden and can then be scraped off with a knife. Then iron a piece of cloth over the grease spot.

Fresh Fruit Stains:
Rub with a cloth dampened with a solution of detergent and warm water. If this is not effective and your floor is resilient tile, wood, or cork, rub the stain with a cloth dampened in a solution of one tablespoon of oxalic acid (available at drugstores and hardware stores) and one pint of water.

Ink Stains:
Rub with a cloth dampened in warm water and detergent. If the floor is not hard-surfaced, use a commercial ink remover and follow the instructions on the package.

Iodine Stains:
Rub with a cloth dampened in a solution of household ammonia and water. If this is not effective, saturate the cloth in the solution and place it over the stain until the stain is removed.

Lipstick Stains:
Rub with a cloth dampened in detergent and warm water. If you do not get results, rub with steel wool dipped in water and detergent. If the floor is hard- surfaced, "no wax", or embossed vinyl asbestos, use a plastic scouring pad instead of steel wool.

Nail Polish Stains:
On resilient flooring, rub with a cloth dampened in a concentrated detergent solution, or use scouring powder, water, and a plastic mesh pad. On wood and cork, rub gently with steel wool. After removing a stain, rinse the area thoroughly, dry completely, and, if floor finish has been removed in that area, recoat with appropriate finish or wax.

Oil Stains:
Remove as much as possible with newspaper, paper towels, or a plastic spatula. On resilient tile, rub with a cloth dampened in detergent and warm water, or if that does not work, use a concentrated commercial household cleaner, and then rinse well. On wood and cork, put a cloth saturated with dry cleaning fluid on the stain for five minutes. Then wipe the area dry and wash with detergent and water. On stone, use a formulated solvent with a soft, clean cloth.

Paint or Varnish:
On resilient tile, rub with a cloth or plastic mesh pad dipped in warm water and detergent. On wood and cork, rub lightly with a cloth dampened in a formulated paint remover following manufacturer's directions so as not to damage the permanent surface finish. On a hard-surfaced floor, scrub with a concentrated solution of detergent and water.

Rubber Heel Marks:
A pencil eraser may remove them. If not, heel marks and other stubborn spots may be removed by rubbing gently with 000 fine steel wool and the solvent-based wax used on the floor.

Rust Stains:
Use a commercial rust remover made for your type of floor such as Wink or Zud.

Shoe Polish Stains:
On resilient flooring, rub with a cloth dampened in a concentrated detergent solution, or use scouring powder, water, and a plastic mesh pad. On wood and cork, rub gently with steel wool. After removing a stain, rinse the area thoroughly, dry completely, and, if floor finish has been removed in that area, recoat with appropriate finish or wax.

Tar:
To remove tar, freeze it to brittleness with ice cubes and then scrape it off with a plastic spatula. To remove the tar stain, wipe with a cloth dampened with either a dry cleaning solvent or a formulated safety solvent. Scrape up excess tar with the side of a dull knife. Rub again with your fingernail, a ice cream pop stick, or anything that won't scratch the floor. Finally, wipe up the tar with a dry cloth.

Urine Stains:
Rub with a hot, damp cloth and scouring powder. For old stubborn stains, use a 10 to 1 dilution of liquid bleach. Rinse well with clean water. Bleach reaching the actual wood surface will lighten/discolor the floor.

 

Come visit our showroom. We can teach other great floor caring techniques in person.

 

Contributed in part by www.doityourself.com . Please visit their site for excellent advice on all types of home care.

 

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